Chongqing is a city built vertically — towers rising off cliffs between the Yangtze and Jialing rivers, roads that pass over rooftops, a monorail that glides through the middle of an apartment block. China's "mountain city" is also its fog capital and its self-declared hotpot capital: a loud, humid, wildly atmospheric place where the night view earns comparisons to Hong Kong and the cooking earns comparisons to nothing else.

