Guangzhou is the capital of Guangdong and the historic heart of Cantonese China — a port on the Pearl River for two thousand years, and a city that has always measured itself by the table. Locals say "eat in Guangzhou" and mean it: morning tea is a ritual, dinner an institution, and between the two lie arcade streets, an island of old consulates, a granite Gothic cathedral and the brightest skyline on the river. Give it two unhurried days, and eat as often as you walk.
