Hailuogou is the easiest place on earth to stand under a real glacier. On the east flank of Mount Gongga — 7,556 meters, the "King of Sichuan Mountains" — a valley of primeval forest climbs from subtropical town to ice, ending at one of the lowest glaciers accessible anywhere and a mile-high ice waterfall you watch from viewing platforms. The valley's other gift is improbable: outdoor hot springs steaming under snow peaks, with Moxi old town at the gate for evenings.
