Hong Kong is a vertical city poured between a mountain and a harbour — Cantonese at heart, international in its skin, and dense enough that a first visit can feel like three cities in one: the financial canyons of Central, the market streets of Kowloon, and the green islands a short ferry ride offshore. It rewards walking, grazing and riding things: a century-old tram, a funicular up the Peak, a Star Ferry that has crossed the same water since 1888.

