Putuoshan is a small island in the Zhoushan archipelago and one of China's four sacred Buddhist mountains — the earthly seat of Guanyin, the Bodhisattva of Compassion. Monasteries rise from pine forest above golden beaches; fishing boats cross to it all day; pilgrims climb its steps on their knees. Even for a traveller with no religion, it is one of the strangest and most beautiful combinations in China: sea air, temple bells and incense smoke in the same breath.
