Wuyuan, a county of white-walled villages in northeastern Jiangxi, is billed as China's most beautiful countryside — and for once the slogan undersells the good weeks. In late March the terraced hillsides turn solid yellow with rapeseed flowers around clusters of Hui-style houses, black-tiled and gable-crested, that belonged to old Huizhou before maps moved the border. Come for the bloom, stay for the covered bridges, ancestor halls and tea; return in late autumn, when the village rooftops are draped with chilis and chrysanthemums drying in the sun.
