Xixi is the quiet third of Hangzhou's "three Wests" — after West Lake and the Xiling seal society comes a national wetland park: ten square kilometers of braided channels, fish ponds, reed banks and old fishing hamlets pressed against the city's western edge. You explore it the way it was always used — by boat — drifting between plum orchards, persimmon groves and a temple reachable only by water.

