Yantai, the biggest city on the northern Shandong coast, keeps two reputations at once: the cradle of Chinese winemaking and one of the great fruit-growing coasts of Asia. The hills behind the harbor grow the grapes of China's oldest winery and the apples and cherries the region is famous for; the shore itself is a string of beaches, fishing piers and headlands with summer air that stays dry and cool. It is also the practical gateway to Penglai and the island chain of Changdao to the west.
