Yuntai Mountain, on the southern rim of the Taihang range near Jiaozuo in Henan, is a UNESCO Global Geopark built around water: a deep crimson-sandstone gorge, a chain of pools and cascades, a waterfall claimed among China's tallest, and a summit from which the Tang poet Wang Wei is said to have missed his brothers one Double Ninth morning. It is one of central China's best-organized parks — shuttles, walkways, signed one-way routes — and one of its busiest on weekends, when half of Henan seems to arrive.

