Zhenyuan is the river town of Guizhou: the Wuyang River bends through it in a near-perfect S, stacking old houses, wharves and night lanterns along both banks, while the cliff-hugging Qinglong Cave complex stacks Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian halls above the water. Compact enough for a day or two, and an easy mainline-rail stop between Kaili and the north.

