Zhuhai is China's softest-paced big city: a special economic zone that grew into a garden of palm-lined boulevards instead of smoke stacks, facing Macau across a narrow channel and Hong Kong across the estuary. A promenade called Lovers' Road curls for kilometers along the coast, more than a hundred islands scatter offshore, and the seafood comes off the boats nightly. Come for two or three days of sea air, island ferries and slow dinners — Zhuhai rewards travelers who are not in a hurry.

